Travels of A Dark Camel » Thailand

Home Again

adarkcamel — Tue, 06 Feb 2007 01:41:11 +0000

After 430 odd days, around 60 000km, 12 countries (if you count a brief foray into Laos and Burma) and at least an oil tanker worth of booze, the travel is finally over. A fact I’m sure some of you will be laughing your asses off about. Bastards.
For those I managed to meet and catch up with on the journey, it’s been a bloody great trip. Just now getting a chance to look through some pictures, it’s hard to believe so much went on in a time that seemed to fly by.
During my last week in Thailand I booked a day trip up to the Golden Triangle (and subsequently sat and drank whisky with the tour agent much longer than was advisable considering the following days trip).
The Golden Triangle is an area in Northern Thailand where Thailand, Myanmar(Burma) and Laos converge around the Mekong River. In past times it was a big opium growing and trading region, between the three countries where the main currency for purchase was gold (hence the Golden Triangle, or so I’m told) Nowdays though, the opium crops have all but dissapeared and it remains a bit of a tourist trap. With a trip along the Mekong river into Burmese waters and then a brief stop in Laos it was still a worthwhile journey, allowing me the chance to have a shot of famous Laos Snake whisky. This throat burning drink is scooped from a big jar containing a fermented Cobra with a scorpion in it’s mouth. Mmmm
Back in Chiang Mai, I had the opportunity to hire a death trap of a scooter for the day and hoon up to Doi Suthep, a big Golden Buddhist Temple. Sitting atop a mountain with a brilliant view over Chiang Mai, the temple is covered in Golden Spires, rows of cast iron bells surrounding the pagoda and definitely has a spiritual air about the place. Reading into a bit of theory behind Buddhism, I found some interesting elements but couldn’t get to a totally quiet mind. This I think, had to do with the fact I’d left my passport as collateral for the scooter with a guy called ‘Mr Beer’. Trustworthy or what?
Cruising through the hectic streets of Chiang Mai that night like a madman, I had a few close calls but bloody hell was it fun.
My last full day I ended up at a thai cookery school, which did not start well. The obligatory market tour had me tasting a fermented duck egg. Purple and clear like Jelly instead of white, with a gooey black centre not unlike an oyster I struggled to hold it down, mainly because I don’t like eggs anyway.
The rest of the cooking school though was a culinary delectation, with six courses of Thai food that turned out to be suprisingly easy to make.
The following day however, the ardous journey home began, ending with a 6am landing in Sydney a day later. It wasn’t long before the catch up drinks began, meeting up with Phil in Sydney and then heading home to Coffs and more drinks. There’s still the return to Newcastle to contend with also. For now though I’ll wrap it up and enjoy the comforts of home, beach time, a bit of tennis, bbq’s….isn’t the holiday meant to be over?

The End Draws Near

adarkcamel — Sat, 27 Jan 2007 21:39:03 +0000

The reality of going home and the end of travelling has become a more immediate concern, but I’ll be damned if I’m not going to squeeze out every last drop of entertainment I can before being shackled once again to chains of university (a lot lighter than some I’ll admit and not all bad)

Since leaving Koh Samui, I spent a few days at Khao Sok National park (thanks for the tip Loz) and ended up boating about on a huge lake past massive Karst limestone formations, trekking through jungle, delving deep into bat filled submerged caves and swimming at remote untouched waterfalls. Add to this the compulsory end of day massage, a few quiet beers and card games with fellow travelers, and the insansely cheap and delicious Thai food, it becomes an easy life to grow accustomed to.

Heading off to the islands of the south-west, I fell in with a German couple I’d met and on their recommendation travelled to the island of Koh Jam (or Jum). A sleepy little fishing island, with no electricity, breezy beachside bungalows for less than 5 bucks a night and best of all only a smattering of tourists, it was in stark contrast to the overcrowded, overcommercialised tourist traps that sadly many other islands have become. I’m sure it’s only a matter of time for Koh Jam, but for now I was happy to sit back and relax in this island paradise.Dilla, the owner of the bungalows is the friendliest person you’ll ever meet, and along with her sister will burst into constant bouts of uncontrolled laughter.

Serving up huge expertly cooked meals for around a dollar and staying in the simple but comfortable bungalows for less $4 a night, it was no wonder that my plan to stay for a couple nights dragged into a week. Why keep searching when you’ve already reached paradise? Although I’d planned to visit some other islands, I opted instead to take a day trip to Bamboo island near Koh Phi Phi for some snorkelling in clear emerald waters with abundant fish life, but not so spectacular coral. (The tsunami had something to do with this, but you can’t top the Great Barrier Reef anyway)

Reluctantly deciding there was more to see before leaving Thailand, I headed up to Chiang Mai in the North and headed out for a three day trek with all the usual tourist gimickry. Elephant riding, staying in local villages high in the mountains, caves, waterfalls and some decent hills to climb, it was definitely a full-on experience. With a group consisting of English, Spanish, French, Dutch and Japanese, I was quick to warn them they could expect a visit from me somewhere down the road. The highlight of it all though was our last night in a remote village where their 8 day new year celebrations were well under way, consisting of constant fireworks, mass dancing and sitting around drinking homemade rice wine in the hut of some locals. Trekking the next day with a sore head was not ideal, thankfully the ice cold river where we went whitewater rafting and bamboo rafting eased the pain.

With less than a week left I’m now in Chiang Rai visiting some people for a few days before taking some Thai cooking lessons in Chiang Mai (a paltry substitute for the withdrawals I’ll get once home) and finally heading back to Bangkok. Typically the airline has chosen my departure date as a good time to strike, so that throws a spanner in the works but I’m sure I’ll get back to good old Oz eventually. Happy Australia Day for yesterday and can’t wait to down a few schooies of aussie beer with those still in the homeland.

Till then, adios

Bringing in the New Year

adarkcamel — Thu, 11 Jan 2007 23:34:32 +0000

I figured I best get the latest adventures down, before a plehtora or new ones that are rapidly approaching push them out of my questionable memory.

When last I kicked off, I was leaving the Emerald Isle and heading back to the UK for some shenanigans with highschool friends Doyle and Liv in Worcestershire (Grand Okanaganers how do you pronounce that??) which included initiating a english 21st party into the art of Beer Bonging. Standing atop the highest point in Great Malvern, which by the way is in Worcestershire in the blistering cold at 8.30 in the morning for a final definat beer bong was perhaps not the wisest thing to do but certainly memorable.

Training it back to London, the next few days were spent haunting the various drinking houses around Shepards Bush catching up with Tom, Stevo and Bretto from Newcastle. With the family gathering for christmas we had an awesome Tepenyaki meal, and I was all set to head on up for a family christmas in Norwich the next day. As is generally the case with travel plans they were quickly scuppered when the venerable Mr Bates informed me of his arrival in London. Discarding my ticket, it was time to visit a couple of pubs and trade bullshit stories. Finally managed to catch up with Laura that night which was as always entertaining (the table next to us were a little startled by the antics).

With Bates and Meself both suffering from TMP, (Too much piss) over the last couple of weeks, we didn’t quite run riot in London but still managed to down a fair quantity of beverages during the whole endeavour.

Eventually dragging my suffering self through the thick fog enveloping England I made my way up to the family christmas and spent the next several days, sleeping ridiculous amounts, gorging on food and enjoying the occasional beverage with the siblings and their better halves.

Figuring there’d be at least some interest value in a Flight over the New Year, I was instead stuck at Heathrow with a delayed flight as the countdown rapidly approached. Instead of being a convivial atmosphere at the departure gate, I was stuck watching the news about a string of bombings in Bangkok that went off during new year celebrations. I sure can pick the places to go next huh?

So New years came and went, possibly during my 4th or 5th rapidly consumed Glenfiddichs while watching some stupid movie wedged between two fat guys, but what can you do?

If you’re still with me here, it might be a good time to stretch the limbs before we plunge on into the next chapter.

Far from a fear-stricken arrival in Bangkok, a couple of enjoyable days were spent cruising the river, checking out markets and seedy districts and predictably enough running into Jill and Anna from Fernie as I was strolling through the night markets. In a city of over ten million people I still just expect these coincidences to happen.

Heading the next day to Koh Samui, my stay was short lived before I was on a boat over to Koh Phangan for the Full Moon party. Although it was a solo mission, needless to say after downing enough buckets of Thai whisky and red bull everyone was my friend. Witnessing some unbelievable fire twirling, joining the thronging mass of dancers and heading back periodically for some more whisky buckets, the evening became hazier and hazier. Before I knew it, the sun was up I was talking to a diverse bunch of strangers on the beach and it was high time I got back to the pier before the last boat at 8am to Koh Samui took off without me.

Also the weather wasn’t always the greatest on Koh Samui the water was sublime, and I had a good time catching up with the folks and their friends for some balmy evening meals. Lazy days spent lounging on brilliant white beaches, kayaking, jet skiing, beach football with the locals, no wonder the time has flown. Ok so yeah this is really dragging on huh? Jill and Anna made their way to the island for a few days and after some fun, sometimes drama-filled times (i wont mention that you lost your passport Anna) they’ve headed on unless some further trouble has befallen them. So tomorrow I make my own way, as yet undecided but I think the general direction west could be something to consider. I’m sure there’s plenty more tropical lagoons to discover. Which reminds me, what the hell am I still typing for? The ocean is calling!

Happy New Year