By now, rough night crossings and nano-sleeps had become the norm, and I was starting to become edgy and irritable during our day trips. I had trouble imagining how the other passengers were going to cope on the eight day stint with no respite from this torturous floating see-saw. Luxurious as it was, nothing can compensate for a decent nights sleep on solid ground.
Selfish mumblings aside though, we were still in a zoological paradise, with constant reminders from playful sealions, splashing about around the ship.
Todays itinerary began with a sweltering walk around a jagged lava islet. The stark difference in which lava can form was apparent here, with its sharp spiky ʻAʻā as opposed to the smooth, puddled, melted-plastic look of Pāhoehoe lava we’d seen previously (Not 100% sure of the accuracy of terminology with the second type).
The little islet was swarming with sun seeking marine iguanas, many of who were digging holes to lay eggs in. It was fascinating to see the lazier amongst the group, watch a fellow iguana dig, then try and muscle in and claim their pre-dug hole. Predictably several fights broke out with lots of hissing and scratching and bobbing of the heads. One poor Iguana, obviously exhausted by the whole process of digging and laying eggs, watched despairingly as some enterprising Frigate birds swooped in and stole the eggs.
Another Panga ride had us motoring past a cluster of chattering Galapagos penguins and some Marine Iguanas earning their titles by actually swimming around, instead of lounging in the sun as per usual.
Our snorkelling for the day was a disappointment in terms of fauna, but it was always going to pale in comparison to what we’d seen in the Devil’s Crown. It was interesting though, to swim through some narrow winding channels in the lava.
Whether it was laziness, or a restriction in our program by the National Park service, our afternoon consisted of being dropped into the town of Puerto Villamil and told to wander. After navigating through the dusty streets and finding most things closed, Dan and I came across another Marine Iguana colony, and Dan found the opportunity to wake Desmond (the inflatable kangaroo) from his lengthy slumber. He hadn’t seen light of day since Iguazu falls, and was happy to pose for some pictures alongside the iguanas.
As the sun began to dip, we found ourselves knocking back a few relaxing beers under the thatched roof of a portside bar. The spanish couple joined us and we organised a later departure while the rest of the passengers headed back to the boat. Though in no way affected with nausea by the rocking boat, it was still nice to spend time on solid ground. It was with great reluctance that we left that little bar when the panga came for us, as the four of us were working our way to becoming part of the furniture.
Sensing it was our last night on board, another dazzling sunset was provided, and Dan and I decided to make the most of Ernesto’s services at the bar, having more than a few post-dinner beers. Unfortunately, early indications of interest by our fellow passengers in joining for a drink had given way to exhaustion.